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How would one mount this document printed and hand lettered on watercolor paper? It has a deckled edge and I want that to show. I would think it would be mounted on foamboard, but how can I do that archivally?
posted 4/12/2010 9:23:00 AM by Lynn Osterman


  In recognition of this document''s high personal value (and in some cases, monetary value as well), I suggest using only the finest preservation-grade materials and methods to frame it.

First, for the matting and mounting, use alpha cellulose boards (made of purified pulp or cotton linters), lignin-free and buffered. If you cover the mats with fabric, make sure the fabric and adhesive are chemically stable. Buy the fabric from an established framing-fabric source, and use starch paste or acrylic medium for its adhesive.

Float mount the Ketubah by Japanese paper hinges & starch paste to a slightly undersized 4-ply or 8-ply mounting board. Then attach that assembly to the surface of a sturdy, reinforced background. For reinforcement, use alphacellulose board layers or fluted polypropylene (Archival Coroplast, marketed through Bainbridge distributors). I suggest not using foam center board in the frame package, due to the possibility of offgassing from the styrene core, even though a high quality paper covering would not be an issue.

Mats, with windows cut larger than the artwork, may be elevated to provide an air space of at least 1/8" between the art and the glazing. That way, the background mat color would be visible, recessed between the edges of the Ketubah and the window mat.

For the glazing, use only 99% UV-filtering glass or 98% UV filtering acrylic. For the best appearance, use optically coated glazing, such as Museum Glass or Museum Optium Acrylic.

Be sure to fit the frame with sufficient tolerance to enable all materials inside to expand and contract freely. Fill the frame''s rabbet depth with insulating filler board layers and install a tight-fitting, sturdy dustcover.

Use a two-point hanging system. If a wire is to be used, be sure to provide two wall hooks, and make the wire long enough to depart the frame at angles of at least 60-degrees from vertical. The closer to vertical the wire departs the frame, the less stress would be imposed on the frame assembly over time.
posted 4/13/2010 4:50:00 PM by Jim Miller

  Hi this is Ivette from France.

A thank''s a lot for all this informations. Good job :)
posted 8/3/2017 10:13:00 AM by Ivette Carlier